Headhunters call it a day

Mabul Island at Sunset

   

Sad to say this is our final blog as we finished up at the TONIBUNG office two days ago after a manic rushing through of last minute details and tidying up loose ends. We are writing this from Mabul Island, just off the East Coast of Sabah where we have headed for a few days to do a spot of diving before we pack up. Diving Sipadan was like jumping into a giant aquarium. Sharks, turtles, eagle rays, cuttle fish, octopi, mandarin fish…we could go on for a while.

 

The problematic bridge

Community Workshop 

We returned to Buayan and Tiku in the Crocker Range with our boss, Banie to report to the communities there our plan for the hydro sites. In Buayan (if you remember from one of our first blogs) there are a few problems with the existing 10kW micro-hydro including structural problems with the bridge supporting the penstock pipe and siltation at the intake. We proposed to the village our plans for improving and solving these problems and enquired into their thoughts on the feasibility of the work involved. Banie organised a Gotong Royong (community get-together) in order to discuss the matter which traditionally ended in the Tapei (rice/tapioca wine) and local food being passed around the group and the guitar making an appearance for some “kampung karaoke”.

In Tiku we carried out a few more flow and head measurements and assessed with Banie where we thought would be the best location to site a potential 10kW micro hydro. This again was followed with another Gotong Royong to inform the community of our intentions and our proposed plan. The head of the village, through translation, explained to us that they were very glad that we were hopefully able to help them provide electricity to the village. At present, small diesel generators are used by some of the houses but transporting fuel from the town proved difficult, especially during bad weather when the river is not cross-able. Banie later explained that since Tiku is probably the closest Kampung to the built up coastal towns in Sabah it is generally hit first by disputes over land, logging and farming rights. By installing an off-grid electricity source the lives of the kampung people could hopefully improve. On our return to the office we completed and submitted our proposal to a few potential funders and will hopefully hear back with good new soon.

   

Orang Utan

We managed to squeeze in a road trip to Sandakan on the East Coast of Sabah over the weekend. The scenery on the drive over from the West was fantastic: the road passes through the Kinabalu National Park and the views of the mountains, mainly Mount Kinabalu were breathtaking. We saw the Orang Utans and Proboscis monkeys, endemic to Borneo, visited the Rainforest Research Centre and the Sepilok Giant, a huge 1000 year old tree. On our drive back we stopped off at the Sabah tea plantation which had fantastic views across the region and the Poring Hot Springs for a dip in a hot mineral bath; freshen up in a waterfall and a quick trip to see the Rafflesia flower, the largest in the world.

Rafflesia Flower

Proboscis Monkey

   

A few days later we were off again: this time to Peninsular Malaysia to visit a few more sites. We teamed up with COAC (Centre for Orang Asli Concerns), run by Colin Nicholas, who are involved in raising awareness of the struggles faced by the Orang Asli. Our first kampung of the trip was Tanjung Rambai, where improvements were in the process of being done to the micro-hydro there. We took some flow measurements, as well as measured up and drew a few sketches for construction of an improved side-intake structure and weir to remedy siltation. Unfortunately we did not have time in our schedule to stay and oversee the work being done but Banie was more than confident that the community were able to carry out the work themselves from referring to our sketches and dimensions.

Work already underway to replace turbine that was damaged by heavy siltation

Short head race and forebay tank which required work 

A few on-site calcs

We took a trip to another nearby kampung which we had been asked to visit by the Tg. Rambai community. We did not have a lot of information on the kampung but were told that they could benefit from a micro-hydro scheme of their own. The kampung is only a few kilometres outside of the capital, Kuala Lumpur and it was almost incomprehensible that just out of sight of the grandeur Petronas Towers, which dominate the KL skyline, you can find a small impoverished kampung without adequate water, sanitation and electricity. Even a major highway has recently been constructed nearby which has in fact cut off several houses from the rest of the community. However, there were a few signs of development including some low cost government housing in the midst of being built. We carried out a feasibility study of the river which suggested that a small hybrid scheme could work: although it can be pricey and the signs that the government have already intervened in developing the kampung hopefully suggest that they could be hooked up the grid in the near future. We’ll see if anything develops there!

Kg. Ulu Semul

We also spent a night in probably the most remote and primitive kampung of our placement, Ulu Semul in the Pehang region where we slept in the traditional houses on the open-slatted bamboo floor (superb way of ventilation: kampung air-con!) and bathed in the river. We carried out some flow and head measurements but the river was unsuitable as there was insufficient head. However, we heard of a few other nearby kampungs, Sagong and Ulu Tenlan that also had potential rivers so we set off in the hope that there was potential for the river to provide enough power for both kampungs. Banie and a few other team members headed to Tenlan while Andy and I set off for Sagong. To our delight the river at Sagong was fantastic and even from a quick glance it was easy to see that there was a lot of potential energy there. Tenlan wasn’t as hopeful but maybe there is scope, if costs allow, for construction of a scheme large enough to power both kampungs sufficiently.
   

River at Kg. Sagong

Taking notes at the river

Last week was spent at 3200m above sea level as we hiked up with the rest of our team to carry out installation of various eco-friendly systems for Mountain Torq at base camp, including the pico-hydro scheme we have been worked on over the last few months. We were a little anxious about hiking and working at such high altitudes and suffering from altitude sickness but we took out time reaching the base camp and other than a bit of breathlessness we were both fine. We helped re-arrange the gravity feed water tanks to increase the capacity of the tanks, install a solar water heater and solar panels (as part of the solar-hydro hybrid). All the equipment needed to be carried up by porters and it was incredible to see these guys with heavy tanks, pipes, batteries etc. strapped to their backs powering up the mountain quicker than we did! Unfortunately all the pipes needed for the hydro-scheme didn’t make it up the mountain in the time we were there so installation has been postponed until phase 2 in January. It was disappointing but that said we still needed to survey the site and determine the location of intake, forebay tanks and powerhouse which we were able to do. As a thank you, Mountain Torq arranged for us to do the Via Ferrata on our penultimate morning which involved a very early morning hike up to the start of the Via Ferrata, near the summit and traversing down the mountain using harnesses, wire ropes and cable bridges.

       

Back down in the office we spent the final week doing paperwork and tying up loose ends. Banie also threw us a farewell BBQ at the workshop. Consuming meat, moonshine and whisky all night wasn’t the ideal preparation for the following morning’s flight to Semporna, but we still had a brilliant send off, and are extremely grateful to everyone we’ve been involved with over the last 3 months. We really appreciate the efforts people have made to give us such a memorable and genuine experience of Borneo. It has been a privilege, and we recognise how lucky we are.

Lewa-Lewa!

Long boats

Just got back last night from another field visit to a few villages near the Indonesian border. What an experience! We have to say that we think we have got ourselves the best EWB placement going! Had to take a 3hour 4x4 journey south then a long boat down the river towards Indonesia from where the road ended. Because it had rained loads the night before the river was huge and whole trees were being washed downstream. At points it was like white-water rafting as the rapids knocked the little boat around and sprayed water all over us! A bit scary but really thrilling. By the time we got to the village we were soaked!

Kampung Inakaak

We visited 4 villages in total: Inakaak; Bantul; Saliman and Babalitan. There are already  micro-hydro in place in the first 3 which we were just checking over. A few improvements needed to be made including removing the dry-season nozzle from the turbine intake at Inakaak and installing a more suitable nozzle for the wet season. The final village, Babalitan, we were originally heading to, to carry out a feasibility study of a river for a potential MHP site. However the watershed of the river is owned by another village who are being a bit difficult and refusing to allow the use of there river even though our boss, Banie is offering to install a small solar power scheme in return. So there was not much we could do there until the problem is settled between the villages. We did however have a look around Babalitan and inspected the ill-fitted solar panels at the school there. Not sure what the contractors were thinking when they put it up but its facing away from the sun and is shaded by the schoolhouse for most of the day! The batteries are also all wired wrong and not charging- so the panels are only supplying a little bit of power from the small amount of sun they get during the day and no power is available throughout the rest of the day or night. Our hope is that we can construct a micro-hydro/ solar hybrid scheme there to provide enough power for the village but if the neighbouring village are unwilling to co-operate then another river will have to be sourced. 

Bathtime at the reservoir in Inakaak

Patrick doing a bit of maintenance to the turbine

Spot the problem with the solar panels

Dinner for 4 in Saliman

The Murut people (indigenous group that live in the villages in that area of Sabah) are so incredibly friendly! Each village follows similar traditions to welcome visitors to their village: each household will bring some food and drink for the visitors. So when we arrived in Inakaak (we think there were maybe 10 households) the 4 of us were meet with 10 jugs of coffee, tea and hot chocolate and enough biscuits to feed an army! Then at dinner time we were presented again with food that would have been enough for maybe 20 people! Custom is to try a bit of each so as to not show favoritism. There was some interesting dishes including fermented fish (tastes a bit like stilton), fermented pork and lots of fresh fish and wild boar that were hunted that afternoon when they heard we were coming. It was the same in all the villages we visited and we feel now literally ready to burst. So much food over the last few days! 

Headman in Bantul

The Murut people traditionally live in long houses. The only equivalent we can think of is a cross between terraced housing and student dorms: the house is one very long wooden hut on stilts with a row of living quarters for each family along the length all connected by a walkway. In the centre of the house there is open area for socialising and entertaining (basically the village hall). Some of these long houses have a "traditional trampoline" in the "village hall"  which they jump about and dance whilst drinking rice wine during special occasions. Unfortunately we never slept in the long house itself but stayed with the head of the village in his family's house (which in Bantul there was almost as many living in his house as the long house: both his wives, lots of children and childrens' children. 

Discovered that micro-hydro has a few other uses than powering the villages: as the water supply was temperamental in all the villages we stayed in the only way we could bath was in the reservoir or in Andy's case he jumped straight into a 300gal forebay tank!

        

Banie held meetings with each community in the evenings to teach them a bit about micro hydro. The aim of the meetings were to make the micro-hydro schemes more sustainable by giving the villagers the opportunity to run and maintain there own schemes. 

Banie holding workshop with Bantul community

Villagers getting involved in workshop in Saliman

After that beer or rice wine were passed around with more food! Struggled to keep up with them. Lauren wasnt even half way through a can of beer before the next was put in front of her! On our last night we were staying in Saliman and when the beer ran out instead of everyone heading off to bed and calling it a night someone was sent off down the river rapids to Inakaak to borrow some more beer!

                                                                                                            Tasting Tapei (rice wine)


It was evident that the villages weren't very used to seeing "Orang Putih" (white people) and were a bit wary of us but when the tapei (rice wine) started flowing they went out their way to entertain us. We met an old guy of about 90 in Saliman who was a bit hard of hearing and only spoke the tribal language. He rambled on and on and didn't quite understand that we didn't understand a word he was saying! Banie later mentioned that he had been telling us about the orang putih he had met during the wars and the conflict between Borneo and Japan. His stories were getting all mixed up and he would be telling a story about how friendly the Orang Putih had been when he was a 10year old boy, giving them tins of food and biscuits etc then his story would suddenly change to how he, as a young man would shoot down planes! Was such an interesting guy: wish we could have understood what he was saying!

Our boss, Banie

Chilling out in the long boat on the way to another village

The crew at Saliman

Patrick having a break at the Bantul Powerhouse

Heading back up

In other news....

Headed to Kuala Lumpur last weekend to see what Penisular Malaysia was like. Made the most of our two days and one night there and visited the National mosque, Hindu temples, Chinese temples Chinatown, the markets in Little India and of course headed to the golden triangle to see the KL tower and the Petronas towers. We also took a trip to Batu Caves just outside the city which is a pilgrimage site for Hindus. The huge cave is at the top of over 200 steps and protected by a huge gold statue of a Hindu god. Inside the cave itself there are lots of Hindu shrines and decorations. Really liked KL and are hoping to have another flying visit when we head to Peninsular to visit a few potential MHP sites next month. 
             
                                                        A few snaps from our sightseeing in KL

Headed out to the workshop last week to hand over the designs for the intake and powerhouse at Laban Rata (Mount Kinabalu base camp) They are being made as we speak and will be all ready to go up the mountain to begin installation in the next few weeks. As it turns out we will be helping with the installation and so will have the chance to head up the mountain via ferrata (an alternative route to the summit fixed with cables, ladders and bridges).

Also, after a bit of research we have come up with a few ideas to get the gasifier in the workshop up and running and will hopefully be getting that sorted when we get a chance. Think it will be a case of doing a few adjustments here and there until we can get it just right and produce bio-gas clean enough to use in an internal combustion engine.

Heading back to one of the first villages we visited, Kg. Tiku on Wednesday to present our feasibility report to the community and get some feedback as well as getting the community involved in the project as much as possible. After all, they will be involved in the construction and once its completed they will take ownership and have the responsibility to maintain it. 

That's all for now, will post again soon. 

Lauren and Andy

Pulau Perkhemahan (Island Camping)

Been based at the office in Donggongon for over 2 weeks now so been using the opportunity to get to see a bit of Borneo and visit some of Borneo's main attractions. Birthday celebrations for Andy last weekend: we headed to the Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, a national park off the west cost of Borneo. We took a boat and visited 3 of the 5 islands in the park: Sapi, Mamutik and Gaya.

Deserted beach on Sapi

Monitor lizard we bumped into
en route to camp on Mamutik

Walked around Sapi, did a bit of snorkelling and chilled out on our own private beach away from the touristy bit. Late afternoon we headed to Mamutik which took us half an hour to walk all the way around, bumping into a few giant monitor lizards on the way. 

Morning view

Camp @ dusk

A special day for a special boy...

Set up camp, again away from the touristy camping area, in a small shelter just off the beach and surrounded by jungle. Strung our hammocks, poured some wine (which we had decided to splurge on and brought with us) and watched the sunset. Got the camp fire going and made a fantastic BBQ (despite having to use cut-up coke cans to cook on). Was amazing to wake up in the morning with an ocean view... any upmarket hotel would have charged a fortune for it but we paid about £1 each to camp on the island! Andy woke up to find that he was sharing his mozzy net with balloons thanks to Lauren...she stuck a load of candles in his breakfast pancakes too...thanks Lauren!!....(no problem Andy!!)

Spent Monday on Gaya which is the largest island but there was absolutely nothing to do where we were so we just lay on the beach all day. There was some monkeys around, but they were more pests than cute, raiding the bins and running off with what we thought at first was Andy's Ipod but lucky was just the case! Lauren got stung by a jellyfish down one side of her leg ... hurt like hell!!! And no, there was no golden showering! Andy ran off and got the lifeguard (small tubby man snoring away in a hammock) who brought his first aid kit (consisting of a toilet roll and a bottle of vinegar). Seemed to do the trick because she survived to tell the tale. Finished up the celebrations with a fab meal and another bottle of wine at an Italian restaurant in KK. Not a bad way to spend your birthday!

Spot of pre-dinner ring of fire on waterfront @ KK

The celebrations continued for one more night as our boss, Banie had organised a game of football and another BBQ for the occasion. Definitely have had enough red meat and beer to last a while!

Back in the confines of the office we have been finishing up a report on our inspection of Kg. Terian and Kg. Buayan and making a start on a proposal from the 3rd village we went to see, Kg. Tiku. Got another proposal underway as well for the base camp on Mount Kinabalu (highest mountain in SE Asia). We are designing a semi-permanent pico-hydro/ solar scheme to provide power and heating to the base camp accommodation. Office based on this one for now but really hoping that we will be asked to go up and check it out. We are planning to climb the mountain anyway but its pretty expensive to do... so if we have to do it as part of our job then great!!!

Weekday evenings have generally been pretty low-key whilst we've been office based. We usually spend them discovering the many restaurants and cafes of Dongongon or if we are feeling particularly energetic we head to the sports centre for a bit of badminton or swimming. However, last Thursday we met up with friends in KK and had a nice bit of barbecued stingray at the Philipino fishmarket. It was actually really nice - we'll definitely be heading back there and ordering it again!!

Indigenous Man from Sarawak playing Traditional Guitar

It was UN World Indigenous Day on Tuesday and to mark the occasion TONIBUNG was involved in organising a 4 day celebration over the weekend at the cultural village (a "display village" near the town which has 11 different houses in it: each typical of the 11 different indigenous people in Borneo.) They had lots going on there to celebrate: we watched (and took part in) traditional dances, tasted traditional food and some very potent rice wine, which was passed around the whole audience but somehow kept being sent back in our direction! We also met representatives from all over indigenous Malaysia who have worked endlessly for human rights of the indigenous communities. 

Tradtional Dancing from Sabah

Traditional Dancing involving blow darts.

Over the whole 4 days we were very kindly chauffeured back and forth from the cultural village by a colleague, Leonard. Such an interesting guy: he is a journalist who has edited for some of the biggest papers in Borneo but has chosen to work freelance in order to help with the struggles facing the indigenous people regarding human rights. He has a lot of interesting stories which he is always willing to share over a beer! 

Lauren looking happy to be meeting some indigenous people

Once we have submitted our reports we are heading off to a few more villages near the Indonesian Borneo border to see  potential sites for micro-hydro schemes and carry out some inspections of existing ones. Time has been speeding past us and there is still lots of work that we still need to do as well as things we still want to see and do around Malaysia. Realised that this weekend coming may be one of the only that we have completely free so to make the most of it we are heading off to Kuala Lumpur.